THE TANK

The holding tank is out.  What we found was a crack in the forward tapered end of the tank, about 2 inches long and more than 1/4" wide at points. 


Lance removed all of the hoses and the head.  We determined that because of the position of the crack, when the tank leaked, and especially underway when the boat pitches in the waves (which it did a fair amount of the day we sailed it home), the effluent was running behind the fiberglass hull liner through an opening for the hoses and making its way to the lowest part of the bilge leaving a trail of stench the entire distance in between.



With everything out, and before the scubdown began, the next order of business was to secure a replacement for the tank.  Not only did the tank have a crack, but because it had never been secured in the space with cleats or tie-down straps, it was pretty much beat to hell.  The edges were eaten away in places to the point that there wasn't much plastic left.  Repairing the tank was not an option.  Besides, anything that causes me that much aggravation must be banished forever from my sight (and smell).

Research done on the Cape Dory Message Board provided us with 2 options for tanks.  (There are probably more, but either of these 2 sources could provide us with an exact replacement tank.) 

The original tank was made by Kracor and they still make it  They list it as a 24 gallon tank, Mold #5159.  You can view their catalog at http://www.kracor.com/pages/marineindustry.html.  We understand that the Kracor tanks have 1/4" thick walls.  This is a bit flimsier than the other manufacturers 3/8" walled tank.  From the factory they come with fittings in standard locations.  Of course the standard locations will not suit our needs.  They will not place the fittings per customer request unless it is ordered through a dealer.   Lewis Marine in Florida is one of their dealers and they list the tank at $325.85, not including shipping or custom fittings.  (And according to their website they only deal with "trade accounts".)  I did see one negative report online from a sailor who ordered his tank this way.  (See http://spirit28.com/Repairs.html).

The other option, and the one we will be going with, is made by Ronco Plastics.  Cape Dory 28', 30' and 36' sailboats all use the same tank so a group of Cape Dory owners got together some years back and had Ronco tool up a mold for them.  They still sell the tank, it is listed as an 18 gallon tank (I have no idea where Kracor hides the other 6 gallons as the dimensions for both tanks are within a knat hair of being identical).  It is mold B486.  I have read accounts from numerous Cape Dory owners who have used this tank and say that it is an exact fit.  It's 3/8" walls will be less likely to crack than the Kracor tanks 1/4" thickness.  If you order direct through Ronco, they will place the fittings per your specifications and only charge you for the fittings themselves.  The tank is listed in their catalog at $231.13.  You would need to add the cost of the fittings plus shipping to that price.  We have requested an exact quote and lead time.  I will update this entry as soon as we receive that information.

We found that we could also order the Ronco tank online from the Tank Depot http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=RH-B486 for $155.13.  It comes with no holes or fittings.  You then purchase a fitting relocation kit for $31.50 and place the ports and outlets wherever you want them.  We are ansy to get this project done, so if the wait time for a tank from the Ronco factory turns out to be long, we may go with this option.  It would be a little bit more work for Lance but we could have the tank within days and it would be cheaper to boot.

CLEANING THE SPACE

Now I turn my attention to getting the v-berth area ready for the new tank and the eradication of the smell.

The first order of business was to deal with what was under the liner and in the bilge.  I filled a garden sprayer (the kind that attaches to a water hose) with commercial strength Clorox disinfecting cleaner.  Then I turned the hose on full blast and sprayed it into the hole in the forepeak where the waste had been entering.  I sprayed continuously into there and the other openings that had been cut into the liner up forward and I kept spraying until the bilge was full of Clorox water up to just under the floor boards. I let that sit all day.  To clean the rest of the area I filled a 1 gallon pressure pump sprayer with a mixture of the Clorox diluted with water and put it on a light spray setting.  I started with the overhead, first spraying it down good, then using a scrub brush, then rinsing it off with a sponge and working my way down to the cabin sole.  I scrubbed the wood as well in preparation for sanding and varnishing.  It took all day to do just the v-berth area.  In addition to varnishing the outer surfaces of the teak interior, the surfaces which are inside the lockers will be sealed with penetrating epoxy to protect them from any further water (or other liquid) intrusion and make them easier to clean in the future.

There was a noticable improvement in the smell, but you can still detect it some and I think that is just because the leak had been there for awhile and the smell has just permeated everything.  I will continue to clean until I have completed the entire boat using the process above.  Then as a last step I am going to use an odor neutralizing product called EXPEL Odor Neutralizer.  It is used by the military on ships and subs among other places and also by waste treatment plants.  It literally changes the cations of the odor molecules and will destroy any odors that are organic in nature.  Check it out at the Orison website http://www.orisonllc.com/odor/ExpelON/expelon.html.   In addition to spraying it down the path of the leak again, you can use it in a mini-fogger to fog an area and it will get into every nook and cranny.  If this seems like overkill, all I can say is "you didn't smell it" !!!!!!!  I will let you all know how this worked after I am finished.  

Fair winds!!
Becky